Photopolymer Platemaking Service

The Bieler Press has provided photopolymer platemaking to the contemporary studio letterpress community since 1995 and publishes the definitive manual on the process. We offer premium-grade plates for today’s popular bases (Bunting, Patmag, Boxcar) with extremely fast turn-around at competitive pricing. Plates are processed and shipped same day/next day. We also provide convenient 24 hour pickup for folks in Greater Los Angeles.

The online film negative processing service we recommend, Tamburello Productions, will process your digital files same day (if received before 8 A.M.) and supplies a quality product at low cost with same day delivery to the Press (contact Tamburello directly for their scheduling and payment requirements).

Photopolymer Plate Specifications:

We currently stock two thicknesses and two backings of Toyobo Printight brand plates for use with flatbases. Toyobo’s photopolymer plates are state-of-the-art industrial quality; made with photosensitive nylon resin—thus they hold detail and fine lines exceptionally well, with no loss of imaging during presswork. The letterpress formulated plates listed here all have a high hardness rating of Shore D 67˚.

• KM95GR—steel-backed at .038" thickness—recommended for use on Vandercooks or Heidelbergs with properly configured magnetic base, e.g., a Bunting Magnetic Cerface Flat Base ground to .880". Can be used on a Patmag base with appropriate underlay.

• KM152GR—steel-backed at .060" thickness—designed for embossing/moulding, this thickness of plate is often used on job platen presses, such as a C&P or Kluge, where roller height issues may be of concern. Common configuration for a Patmag base or Bunting Magnetic Cerface Flat Base ground to .858".

• KF95MC—polyester-backed at .038" thickness—common configuration for non-magnetic bases, such as a Boxcar Base. Includes attached 4 mil film adhesive interlay. Requires underlay if used on a base measuring less than .876", e.g., Boxcar Deep Relief Base.

Our stocked items are client-driven; other photopolymer plate configurations are available as special orders.

Maximum image size for steel-backed plates is 16 by 22-3/8 inches; for polyester-backed plates, 11-1/2 by 18-1/8 inches.

Plates are furnished with unaligned edges cut approximately 1/4 of an inch around imaging (crop marks are trimmed tight). If more or less edge border is required client should request this with order.

Imaging and Film Negatives:

Imaging furnished for plate processing must be in the form of high-quality imagesetter generated film negatives with discernible emulsion side, a minimum resolution of 2400 dpi, and made as RREUs (emulsion side up/right reading). If submitting electronic files to a service bureau (who will supply us with film), Press Quality PDFs are appropriate. If sending film negatives, ensure they are packed well and that there are no kinks or chemical residue on the film.

If client requires multiple plates cut from negatives, imaging must be separated by a minimum of one inch and aligned for linear cuttings in either direction. Leave at least half an inch margin at outside edges of the film negative. Cutting schematic must be emailed to us via PDF or enclosed with film negative. Improperly prepared output is subject to additional processing charges.

Negatives and all other materials are returned to client. Negatives are trimmed to facilitate plate processing.

Rates and Terms:

Notify us via email of pending orders prior to receipt of film. Attach a PDF of your imaging for identification purposes—unidentified film will not be processed. To prevent delays, clients should always provide contact information and indicate with order their delivery/pickup preference (with address if we are to ship), and specific plate needed.

Plates are normally* available/shipped same day (M–F) following receipt of film at the standard “next day” rates listed below:

KM95GR plates are charged at 71.5¢ per sq. inch of image.

KM152GR plates are charged at 76¢ per sq. inch of image.

KF95MC plates are charged at 68.5¢ per sq. inch of image.

*Because of occasional circumstances beyond our control, we cannot always guarantee same day processing. When this is the case, client will be notified and plates shipped or available next day. Be sure to check “Services and Scheduling Status” at the tail of this post prior to ordering.

Measurements are charged at up to 1/2 of an inch over plate’s image size—width and height (including client requested border)—per plate. Minimum measure is one inch in either direction.

• Additionals: Minimum charge per order is $30. After normal business hours, same day “must have now” rush, and custom processing are subject to additional charges. Automatic discount of 2.5¢ per sq. inch every 350 sq. inch step up to 2,100 sq. inches (note that large jobs may not be completed same day).

• Shipping is charged at cost (including insurance coverage for plates and film). Shipping via FedEx, UPS, or USPS (our preference is UPS as that will ensure same day shipment).

• State sales tax (California residents) is added for all nonexempt billings.

• Payment is due upon receipt of plates (and must be received within ten days). We accept checks, cash, and PayPal. No third party billings, please.

Our service is primarily client based and is limited; contact us to establish an account prior to submitting order.

Send an e-mail to The Bieler Press

SERVICES AND SCHEDULING STATUS: Same day plate processing cannot be guaranteed on Tuesdays.

Updated: July 1

Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press — 4th edition, 2009

In print since 1998, Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press was written by Gerald Lange and provides a wealth of detailed information on letterpress printing of photopolymer plates with proof presses such as the Vandercook. Subjects covered include digital type and computer practices; letterpress configuration (including up-dated font modification sequences for FontLab Studio and Fontographer); photopolymer plates, flatbases, and processing equipment; the photopolymer platemaking process—preparation, exposure, washout, drying, post-exposure; plate registration and travel; photopolymer plates and letterpress printing; presswork: impression, cylinder packing and makeready, ink and inking; and press operation and maintenance.

Reviews:

Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press could not come out at a more appropriate time. . . . With his years of experience in type, printing and fine press publishing, Mr Lange brings both respect and credibility to the subject of digital type and fine press printing. —Wilber H. Schilling, Parenthesis: The Journal of the Fine Press Book Association

A masterpiece of concision. . . [Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press] is well worth reading, not just for what it is, a technical guide to the process, but also as a masterpiece of the equally difficult art of describing a technical process in a few clear words. —Nicolas Barker, The Book Collector

Lange’s understanding of the way type design and printing processes are related is impressive, as is the [monograph’s] breadth of reference. —Andy Crewdson, Lines and splines [web log]

In this book [Gerald Lange] brings to digital type the old-world traditions of letterpress printing. Of use to any designer, printmaker, or student of printing history. —Phil Bevis, Arundel Antiquarian Books

If you care about the quality of your polymer plates, Gerald Lange’s classic book [Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press] is mandatory reading. This is the book about polymer plates for letterpress. —Harold Kyle, Boxcar Press [web site]

A short, self-published, but extremely thorough monograph on letterpress printing using photopolymer plates. . . Lange covers all one would want to know about this radical “new” process, as well as giving some pointers on adjusting computer typefaces for optimal letterpress printing. —Katherine Bridges, A. Edward Newton Student Book Collection Competition winner, 2005

The leading spokesman for this process is the California printer and typographer Gerald Lange. His seminal Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press, now in its third edition, offers the benefit of his extensive interrogation of the process. —Steve Rigley, Eye: The International Review of Graphic Design

A Bieler Press Monographs imprint. ISBN 0-931460-40-9. Laser printed on acid-free paper and pamphlet-sewn. 5-3/8 by 8-3/8 inches. 48 pages. Fourth edition (revised and updated, includes new material), 2009.

Available direct from The Bieler Press. $24.95 (California sales tax, $2.43). Add for shipping: USPS Media Mail $2.38, Priority Mail $4.95, Priority Mail International (NA $10.95, all other countries $12.95). PayPal payments accepted.

PDT Appendices

Appendices for later editions of Printing digital type on the hand-operated flatbed cylinder press are available online in the Files section of the Yahoo group site PPLetterpress. Included are font modification sequences for Fontographer and FontLab Studio for both Mac OS Classic and Mac OS X, as well as troubleshooting guides for photopolymer plates and letterpress printing.

Bunting Magnetic Cerface™ Flat Bases

The Bieler Press is a manufacturing representative and distributor (since 1998) of the industry standard Bunting Magnetic Cerface™ Flat Base for Bunting Magnetics Co.

Bunting flatbases are manufactured in a number of standard sizes configured for the various size chases of all letterpress production presses, including Heidelberg, Kluge, Chandler & Price, and Miehle. Shown here is an 8-1/2 by 11-1/4 inch Bunting Magnetic Cerface Flat Base (their largest standard size) locked up in the bed of a Vandercook SP-15. Custom sizes are available up to 19 by 39 inches.

Housed in a cast aluminum body, the powerful surface-mounted ceramic magnets hold steel-backed photopolymer plates or steel dies securely in register—without the need for interlaid spray or film adhesives—and thus provide exacting impression—without distortion or buckling—throughout the most demanding of print runs. Each base is precision ground to the client’s requirements and its magnetism is guaranteed for life.

Bunting Magnetics was founded in 1959 and has manufactured their highly regarded magnetic bases since 1985. The Cerface model (introduced in 1994) is the most recent configuration of their flatbases.

Note: These flatbases can be ground for use on galley proof presses sans bed plate or other presses with non-standard type height requirements.

Registration devices, such as pin registration and scribe line are optional additions. Bunting Magnetic flatbases are also available for hot foil stamping and diecutting operations.

Inquire for current [2009] manufacturer's pricing and ordering.

Green Die Sealer

Green Die Sealer is a well known fast-drying, permanent, yet flexible, sealer for letterpress printing dies. It also serves to prevent solvent invasion of film adhesive on polyester-backed photopolymer plates and ensures bond. It is unaffected by cleaning solvents.

Other applications relating to photopolymer plate processing include sealing of the edges of a Green PVC adhesive sheet and/or a Magback (magnetic rubber) sheet on the platen of a photopolymer platemaking machine (used following installation of a replacement sheet or as repair to existing sheet). A very effective and extraordinarily long lasting water sealer (14 years and counting on my machine).

Eight ounce squeeze tip Yorker type sprout plastic bottle. New, unopened, limited stocking. $24.95.

PPLetterpress

Photo courtesy Farida Sunada.

Founded by Gerald Lange in 2001, PPLetterpress is a forum and clearinghouse on studio-letterpress and letterpress-related typography. While the subject focus is on printing with digital type and the photopolymer plate process, the group site also encompasses related investigative and exploratory printing and typographic techniques, as well as historical and contemporary letterpress practices and concerns.

PPLetterpress serves as both a discussion list and reference site with online resources on type and typography, experimental and traditional printing, and allied interests.

Photopolymer plate cleaning and plate longevity

Solvents/inks that have been indicated as detrimental to photopolymer plate health and longevity are those containing acetates. Plate washes formulated specifically for photopolymer plates are best, but are increasingly hard to find. Most of the plate washes that I have used, such as Anchor's Aled, are no longer on the market. Like type washes, plate washes are fast drying to prevent the solvent from remaining in the relief of the plate and contaminating the ink film.

A particular concern with photopolymer plates is cleaning during a pressrun. Ink runoff and debris, such as paper dust and rag fiber, can accumulate in the relief area of photopolymer plates, which, unlike metal type or metal plates, is tacky and will retain these materials. They will attract further ink into the relief areas and eventually come into contact with the surface film, causing your imaging to become fuzzy or blurry. This aggregate of material is quite difficult to successfully remove. If your plate processor supplies proofs along with your plate, you may notice the relief is already contaminated with lint and residue ink from the cleaning process.

Some solutions: Inexpensive fast dryers like 100% Isopropyl Alcohol (printer’s alcohol) or Coleman Lantern Fuel (white gas) work well as substitute plate washes if used in moderation. Note: these are highly flammable and need special storage containers. There are special lint free tight-weave cloths on the market (medical, aerospace) that I suggest for cleaning plates. Combined with a soft toothbrush, such as those used for gum health, as well as a spray of compressed air, will help quite a bit in keeping the relief area clean.


In regard to storage, mainly keep the plates away from light and heat as well as ozone, the primary cause of plate deterioration. Ozone is generated by electrical motors, lighting, etc. It is also more common in the local atmosphere during the summer months. Combined with high temperatures it will deteriorate the plates quickly, and in severe conditions, cause cracking. It is not uncommon for polyester-backed plates with significant surface area to curl while in storage; there is very little that can be done about this as these are the result of natural stresses.

Used plates should be stored flat in paper envelopes, wrapped in Saran Wrap or black plastic, or sealed in Zip Lock bags (a temporary means to preserve plates is a breathe of air into the plastic bag before closing, ensuring that moisture and carbon dioxide are trapped with the plate). Carbon dioxide baths have been used to preserve and revive plates (in photopolymer's earlier years) and antiozonants (such as ArmorAll) have preservative qualities, but it is far better to regenerate from the original negatives than to re-use an older plate, as you cannot successfully halt the degenerative process (the printing qualities of a freshly made plate, its tack and resilience, wanes over time). Save your film negatives in envelopes with the emulsion side protected with acetate slips.


Copyright © 2009 by Gerald Lange

Brush maintenance and adjustment

The operation of the washout unit of any platemaking machine is a matter of routine. Keep the water level of the bath about a quarter of an inch above the brush, if too low plate surfaces will score. A cup of distilled white vinegar added to the bath will provide a bit of needed acidity and keep mineral deposits from accumulating. After filling the tank and the bristle tufts are saturated, rub them with the flat of your hand to reduce their stiffness.

A minimum amount of care will provide long life to the brush. Degradation to brushes is primarily the result of platen wear pressure due to incorrect brush adjustment, distortion of the tufts, and accumulation of photopolymer debris. Never reheat a saturated bath as debris will adhere to the heating element and harden to the brush unit as well as the inside walls and floor of the tank. Brushes are expensive to replace so daily maintenance pays off.

Empty the bath water at the end of each day to prevent mildew and corrosion. If removable, drain the brush while flushing the bath. Photopolymer residue can accumulate at the floor of the brush and eventually interfere with washout effectiveness by distorting bristle tuft pattern. Spray the tank clean with a high-pressure hose but take care not to spray the bristles or they will tangle and mat. Fill the tank with fresh water and flush again. Clean the sides and bottom with a damp rag. Afterwards, rub the bristles slightly with the flat of your hand to spring the tufts upright. Leave the washout unit open overnight to allow the brush to completely dry out. Some manufacturers suggest never allowing the brush to dry. Defer to your manual.

Replace brush when it begins to fail to completely clean the floor of the photopolymer plate. The incidence of this will increase sporadically but will get progressively worse. Though it is otherwise hard to discern, replacement is forthcoming when the surface of the brush begins to reveal patterns where tufts are no longer retaining their shape.

To reduce wear on the brush test its surface level to the platen. The least amount of pressure is the correct pressure. On a perfectly leveled machine, a dry platen lowered to the wet brush (with water level reduced below the brush) should just show the markings of the wet tufts. If it is dry or overly wet, adjustment is necessary. The brush is adjustable, generally, simply by turning adjusting screws fitted to the brush frame. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct adjustment for your machine.

Essentially, if the platen is completely wet, lower the brush until the tufts no longer mark (and re-adjust until they do), if completely dry, raise them until they just touch. Compensate in raising or lowering for corners that may remain wet or dry. Tufts should just mark the platen—if only two sides of the platen show markings (parallel either horizontally or vertically) or if only the center area; that is okay. To be safe, turn adjusting screws uniformly only a half-a-turn until correct. Do not overly compensate for corners that may be either dry or wet.

Note that if you are routinely processing significantly different thicknesses of plate material or use a detachable PVC carrier sheet, the brush should be adjusted to compensate. If this is the case, it will pay to work out a procedure involving shims that can be easily inserted and removed.

Copyright © 2007 by Gerald Lange

On scales and lamps

A 21-step gray scale (from Dainippon or Stouffer) is used to determine exposure rates (most plate manufacturers supply an information sheet providing the correct step when exposing their plates). The scale is used to test lamp intensity, which should be undertaken periodically. Over time, lamps will degenerate and should be replaced (at approximately 750 to 1,000 usage hours.). If not, exposure consistency will wane with the consequence that plates are no longer able to hold fine detail. To compensate, exposure times need to be increased.

The scale is processed similar to that of a film negative. Process the plate as per your usual practice. The exposure rate should be your normal rate for when processing type. Other rates of exposure, such as those for solids and halftones, are determined correctly with the scale as well. Note that for accurate readings, plate material should be brought to room temperature and the lamps should be warm from previous exposure.

When processing is completed the plate will show step levels of gray. Some of the gray levels will have washed out and others will not have. One or two of the steps between the solid and washed out steps may exhibit slight surface corruption. The first step that does not show corruption indicates the exposure intensity of the lamps. Manufacturers have slightly different specifications for determining correct exposure. Toyobo, the manufacturer of the Printight plate, recommends a solid 14–15 for a .038" thickness plate and 15–16 for a .060" on the Stouffer scale. Other manufacturers have slightly different specifications. If the reading is lower than the recommended reading, it may be time to consider replacing the lamps as they have reached the end of their useful life.

Replacement lamps need to meet the manufacturer’s specifications for your machine. For consistent exposure, it is recommended that all lamps be replaced at the same time. Before replacing your lamps, you should inspect the lighting quality of the existent lamps. Pull the lamp drawer out, turn on the machine, and set the exposing timer for a short duration. Wear eye protection when viewing lamps under exposure. If a lamp is flashing (at start up or shut down), is slow to start, or inoperable, note its numerical position on the drawer, as there is usually an electrical problem not necessarily the lamp that is causing this problem.

Shut the machine off and disconnect the electrical cord. Pull the drawer out, either entirely or just as far as you need to. Remove all the lamps before installing the new lamps. The old lamps should not exhibit arching at the pins or oddities in coloration such as darkening at only one end of a lamp; an indication of a problem in circuitry (which will also shorten the life of the ballast). Gray or brownish bands near both ends of the lamp, however, is normal with lamp aging. Circuitry problems are usually the result of a poor connection either between the lamp pins and the lamp holder contacts, or between the ballast leads and the lamp holder terminals.

Some ultraviolet discharge lamps have a reflector side. This coated side should face down (to the vacuum table). When inserting the lamp make sure the direction of the bi-pin is correct. There are positioning guides (an embossed mark on the metal end cap) that will guide you. The lamp is turned 90 degrees and locked in place. Note the bi-pins must be secure and exactly parallel in the lamp holders. The positioning guide will help you discern if the lamps are correctly locked in place. It should be in the exact center position.

Check the lamps by reconnecting the electrics, starting the machine, and running a short exposure (with the lamp drawer open). If one or more of the lamps is not illuminated, note its position on the drawer and shut the machine off, disconnect the electrics and begin inspecting the connections. You can determine if a lamp is defective by switching its position with another lamp. This will tell you if it is the connections rather than the lamp itself that is the culprit.

Usually the problem is merely a loose connection to a lamp holder, especially if it is a quick-wire or pressure lock terminal rather than a screw terminal. The latter two are easily fixed simply through adjustment. Quick-wire terminals may pull loose when changing out the lamps so you will have to push on each of them to make sure they click back in place.

If the terminals check out okay, the wiring is otherwise correct, and you still have a problem with a non-functioning lamp, the ballast connected to this lamp position may be faulty and need to be replaced. If your platemaker is an older model and you are experiencing continual ballast failure, your ballasts are reaching the end of their life cycle and you should replace them all.

Copyright © 2006 by Gerald Lange.